Guide
Can you smoke on a café or restaurant terrace in Lisbon?
Terraces sit outside the enclosed-space smoking ban, but the practical answer depends on whether the terrace counts as open air or as an enclosed extension of the indoor room.
Last checked: September 2026
In short
Smoking on a genuinely open-air terrace — one without walls or a fixed roof enclosing it — is generally permitted in Portugal, because the national smoking ban targets enclosed spaces, not open-air ones. A terrace that is substantially enclosed, for example with retractable glass walls closed for winter or a roof combined with side screens, is treated as an indoor space and falls under the same no-smoking rule as the restaurant's interior. A 2023 government proposal to ban smoking even on covered, otherwise open terraces did not pass into law, so the practical test in Lisbon today remains whether the terrace is effectively enclosed, not simply whether it has an awning.
Key points
- Genuinely open-air terraces generally allow smoking; substantially enclosed ones are treated as indoor space.
- A 2023 proposal to ban smoking on all covered terraces and at doorways did not become law.
- Winter enclosures with plastic sheeting or glass panels push a terrace toward the indoor rule.
- Venue signage and staff instructions are the fastest way to confirm the local rule.
The legal distinction: enclosed vs open air
The national smoking ban in Lei n.º 37/2007 is built around the concept of enclosed spaces — places with walls and a roof that trap smoke. A terrace with a canopy or umbrella but open sides is not enclosed in that sense, and traditionally has fallen outside the ban.
Where a venue has installed sliding glass panels, plastic sheeting or similar structures that close off the terrace, particularly in colder months, that space starts to function like an indoor room and is treated accordingly for smoking purposes.
What the 2023 proposal would have changed
The government's May 2023 bill explicitly targeted terraces with any form of covering, aiming to stop smoking under awnings, canopies and glass extensions, plus a ban at doorways and windows of restaurants and cafés regardless of covering.
That specific measure was removed by the parliamentary working group before the final vote in November 2023; the law that actually entered into force did not change the terrace rules. Coverage from that period describing a blanket terrace ban reflects the proposal, not the enacted law.
How this plays out in Lisbon
In Lisbon's café culture, open-air esplanadas along streets and squares in areas like Chiado, Príncipe Real or Alfama typically allow smoking, while the same establishment's indoor seating does not. Staff will generally direct smokers to the outdoor tables rather than a specific rule requiring them to ask.
During colder months, when many terraces are partly enclosed with plastic covers and heaters, the practical rule tends to tighten, since the space is closer to an indoor room; some venues choose to prohibit smoking there even where the letter of the law might be debatable, simply to avoid disputes with other customers.
What to check before lighting up
Look for no-smoking signage, check whether the terrace has fixed walls or is currently closed off with panels, and when in doubt, ask a member of staff — house rules on borderline terraces can be stricter than the legal minimum.
Common questions
- Is it now illegal to smoke on any covered terrace in Portugal?
- No. That change was proposed in 2023 but dropped from the bill before it was approved, so a covered but open-sided terrace is not automatically banned; a fully enclosed one is treated as indoor space under the pre-existing rule.
- Can a restaurant ban smoking on its own outdoor terrace even if the law allows it?
- Yes, an establishment can adopt stricter house rules than the legal minimum, and posted signage reflecting that choice should be respected.
- What counts as an enclosed terrace rather than open air?
- Fixed walls, permanent glazing, or temporary panels and sheeting that close off the sides for weather protection all push a terrace toward being treated as an indoor space; a simple umbrella or fixed canopy over an otherwise open terrace does not.
Sources
This page is general information about Portuguese rules and Lisbon practice, not legal advice. Rules change; check the sources for the current text. Tobacco is for adults 18 and over.